July 2018 – Native Plant of the Month

Written by Guest Contributor: Elenore Goode


Wax Mallow/Turk’s Cap – Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii
Family: Malvaceae (Mallow family)
Wax Mallow is a hardy and productive native perennial mallow that has a long bloom period (late spring until first frost) and can bloom and fruit profusely through the Texas summer heat. This is a wonderful edible plant to include in the backdrop of landscapes and gardens for humans, livestock, and wildlife, and to create dense understory shade for retaining moisture under trees. The flowers, fruits, and leaves are all edible and nutritional; the leaves are a good source of minerals, and the fruits are a good source of vitamin C. ​
Wax Mallow’s large leaves are adapted to the shadier understory of trees and large shrubs, and it will also benefit from deeper soils and extra moisture. It can handle more drought and poorer soils when grown in the shade. It can also grow well in full sun, though it will take on a form that is much more compact, and with smaller leaves, and would still prefer some afternoon/evening shade if it has sun the rest of the day.
This is a very common plant in the nursery trade, and many cultivars and closely-related species are available. There are plenty of remaining wild stands to harvest seeds from as well. It is one of the easiest native plants to grow from seed, and they can spread themselves readily where they are not hampered by deer overbrowsing. Wax Mallow’s abundant seed production and ability to germinate in poor and disturbed soil make it a great and economical plant to utilize in habitat restoration efforts.
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Building a DIY Power Plant
Written by: Woody Welch
Photo Captions by Kirby Fry
All Images © Woody Welch 2018

Stacking Functions is a term used in Permaculture to describe the process of getting several functions out of any one structure or project as opposed to only building for one function or use. For example – you could build a roof just for protection from the elements, or you could build a roof that is designed to protect, capture rain water, heat water, grow food, create a space to sunbathe, or  a small green space in an otherwise urban void.

Building a stacked functions structure out of repurposed wood, which costs 20 cents on the dollar, that produces more power than one can use is extremely rewarding. By intentionally designing a structure to serve more than one function you can get more out of your time and investment, as well as the opportunity to harness the natural elements and energy that mother nature provides. I wanted to redesign my carport as a structure that was going to protect my vehicle from the elements, create shade and provide a cool space in the summer, collect rain water and look good while producing plenty of power for my 1800 square foot home and 400 square foot shop on a half acre homestead.

I have been designing and building repurposed wood structures for over 20 years. They always pose challenges but I would argue that the rewards are well worth it. I am also a professional photographer and artist by trade working almost exclusively in the sustainability field. I have always dreamed of having my very own power plant. When  I looked around my 1950’s era homestead in New Braunfels, Texas and asked “What is the worst thing on my property and how can I turn it in to the best thing?”, I looked to my cheaply built 1970’s era aluminum and styrofoam low hanging carport. At only 7 ft. tall, it swayed in the wind, looked like a sore thumb and provided shade but leaked heavily through the styrofoam seams during storms. Turning this liability into an asset while stacking as many functions as possible was an obvious choice.

Having been in the field and spending many hours in a helicopter, documenting solar power plants around the globe, I knew well that the technology had not only come of age but that the price per kilowatt had become competitive enough to directly compete with even the cheapest of fossil fuels. In 2016, the cost per kilowatt to produce solar power vs. natural gas met parity and solar is only getting cheaper as Moore’s Law and Economies of Scale kick in. After doing some calculations and adding the fact that we are collectively not paying for the pollution of burning fossil fuels (effectively avoiding true cost accounting) I looked to solar power as one solution to these growing challenges and unintended consequences of so-called “cheap fuels”.

Combing through craigslist for materials, I found a listing for “big wood” with many photos of large stacks of dimensional lumber. I set out immediately to Buie Lumber company in Boerne Texas, where to my surprise, I found mounds of returned overstock and weathered (just like I like it) lumber for the picking. After several trips, many photos, and back and forth conversations shared with my architect I made the leap to purchase about $18,000 worth of wood for just $4000, delivery included. And although we had to “field mill” some of the larger timbers in my driveway and wrestle with making sense of non-matching, far from perfect wood, my master carpenter Kirby Fry and I finally started making sense of how we would get this done.

Hiring a carpenter that is flexible, open-minded, and creative is paramount for a project like this and makes working through the challenges fun and even invigorating. Kirby Fry of Southern Exposure was the perfect choice.

When we finished with the structure, or “mount” as it is called in the solar industry, we capped it with a high quality standing seam metal roof installed by the experts at Varni Roofing. The “standing” seams are perfect for mounting solar brackets and the surface is preferred for rainwater collection. The material is known to last for over a hundred years, which is backed up by a recent University of Texas study.  

We woke up to three inches of snow on the day scheduled for installation, but Freedom Solar was not deterred! They promptly swept and sprayed the snow off the roof and within 6 hours I had 15/345 watt SunPower panels installed on my Tesla Port and wired into the grid. Working around some upgrades to my old electrical riser, we were still able to get the system installed in what seemed to me like record time.

Six months later the system is producing 127% of my energy needs. That extra 27 percent is going to my neighbors to help with peak use times. I have a $2100 rebate/credit on my utility bill that will pay for my trash/recycle/water/sewage for the next 6 years and I am awaiting the arrival of a Tesla Model 3 so I will literally have sun-powered transportation very soon. We estimated and designed the system to be perfectly tailored for my particular needs and hit the proverbial nail on the head.  

After $7500 federal tax credit and an additional “friends and family” cash rebate my total out of pocket for the system is under $4000. The carport itself cost around $10,000 to build but I estimate it added $20,000 of value to my home.

It’s hard to quantify how it feels to be part of the solution to what I consider being some of the larger challenges we face as a species but I can tell you this – I do sleep a little better at night knowing I have invested wisely in a system that is smart, valuable, redundantly capable, durable and more powerful than I ever really imagined.

I highly recommend imagining a solar power plant of your very own.



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July 2018 – Crop of the Month
Okra – Scientific Name: Abelmoschus esculentus
Family:  Malvaceae (the Mallow family)

If you are still putting annual vegetable seeds into the ground at this time of the year, early summer (June 21 through July 21), then okra ought to be on your list.  It is one of the most successful annual vegetables that can still be planted in July, and though it requires a little bit of “dressing up” to be more palatable to eat, it is hardy, nutritious, and does well in our summer’s high temperatures and high humidity.
Okra can be planted by seed after soil temperatures have gotten above 65 degrees (mid to late March), and then be planted by seed through the first part of August.
Like most annual vegetables okra also does really well if the soil has been turned to a depth of 8 to 12 inches.  Soils can also be conditioned with sheet mulching rather than turning, which I do recommend, but sheet mulching requires more lead time.  A late spring, early summer bed needs to have been sheet mulched and kept moist since the previous fall for best results.
Okra seeds should be planted 1″ deep 4″ apart in a row.  The rows should be about 36″ apart.
As we have noted before, it is a good practice to put out at least 2″ of compost over your garden annually, if not biannually.  I would do this in the spring and in the fall.  Organic slow release fertilizers should be put out under your compost, or in and along side each seed in order to help your vegetables along.
I like the organic Bio-tone products.
When you harvest okra, harvest it while it is still small and tender, less than 4″ long or so, while still green and tender.
You should wear long pants, long sleeves, and gloves when harvesting as okra has spicules on its surface that will irritate your skin.  Collect it in a wicker basket or paper bag and then refrigerate it as soon as you can.
Prepare your palates picky eaters and cook your okra wisely.   Okra is mucilaginous (slimy, especially when just boiled) and is easier for me to eat it when it is battered and fried, and or added to a large pot of gumbo.
What a great summer crop, though, to be able to enjoy here in Texas!
Kirby Fry
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Featured Tool
Written by: Kirby Fry
Razorback Shovel Long Handle Round Point – R248S LHRP
Available at Home Depot – Cost:  Approximately $35.00
It’s funny sometimes watching people dig with shovels on movies and TV series.  To anyone who has ever really had to dig a ditch, it is so obvious that in movies people are digging graves and ditches that have been backfilled with loose soil, I’m thinking specifically of TV series like The Walking Dead, and Super Natural, which I both really like by the way.
After personally digging miles of conservation terraces and utility ditches by hand, I can tell you a little bit about what one is looking for in a good shovel.  The R248S LHRP satisfies all of my requirements, and meets all of my expectations, the requirements follow.
A strong 48″ long wooden handle.  I would rather have a wooden handle rot on me after 5 or 8 years of use, than have a fiberglass handle crack on me after 6 months of use.
A broad foot rest at the top of a 12″ tall shovel head.  When you put your full weight onto the head of a shovel, you’re hoping that the shovel isn’t so narrow that it splits the soul of your boot in two – which has happened to at least a half dozen work boots that I have owned.  What you want is a broad, textured foot rest that will not cut into the bottom of your boot and foot.
A shovel blade that is thick enough not to buckle under your full weight.
A reinforced shovel head socket that extends further up the length of the shovel handle.  The extended socket helps to defuse the stress on the wooden handle where it connects to the shovel head, and greatly increases leverage and life span.
– Other advice –
Keep you hands clean while digging.  Keep your shovel handle clean as well.  This will prevent slippage, and the creation of blisters.  I never wear gloves when I am digging.
Clean and oil your shovel between jobs.  Even be ready to sterilize it by dunking the head of the shovel into a mild bleach bath when working on organic farms.  It is actually a state requirement.
The Razorback shovel, long handle, round point is hands down my favorite shovel to dig with.  I have donated 3 of them to permablitzes and never broken one yet in over 8 years.
Here’s a quote from the movie, Mystery Men, that I can relate to.  “God gave me a gift.  I shovel very well.  I shovel VERY well.”
I shovel even better with the R248S LHRP in my hands!
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Earth Repair Corps Permaculture Design Course (PDC) at Texastopia in Blanco, Texas – 2018 06 19


Hello Everyone,

Earth Repair Corps just completed its first PDC near the headwaters of the Blanco River at Texastopia.

Pete VanDyck and I signed the PDC certificates together.  It was a real honor to teach with Pete, and everyone else that made this course possible.

During the second half of this course we discussed specific design systems, beginning with the home, and then moving outward towards further away and larger systems; from the built environment (the home), to intensive annual vegetable, culinary, and medicinal gardens (right around the home), to small animal systems, broader annual crops,  and orchards (several yards away from the home), to intensive cell grazing systems and wood lots (well away from the home), and then on to ecological restoration.


So much thanks to our guest speakers.

Heather King shared with us just what it takes to grow an annual vegetable victory garden and market garden here in Central Texas.  She covered how to cope with profitability, heat, drought, hard freezes, heavy rains, and unpredictability.

Tina and Orion Weldon spoke to us about their amazing work at TerraPurezza raising pasture fed pigs, harvesting the food waste stream to supplement their feed costs, and marketing organic produce and meats to restaurants.  TerraPurezza has received a Texas Department of Agriculture Young Famer Grant, and an Environmental Protection Agency award for Green Infrastructure, and Low Impact Development.

Adam Russell shared with us that healing the human body and healing the soil have a lot in common.  Both have to breath in air, both need water moving through them, both need neural connections, and both need protective covering.  He also gave us a tour of his family farm in Blanco, Texas showing us where he installed conservation terraces, and where he applied the Yeoman’s Keyline chisel plow.

Jim O’Donnell spoke to the class about the Balcones Canyonlands Preserve (BCP), where he is working to create ecological resilience around the City of Austin’s western greenbelt.  One of our next permablitzes will be at BCP.

Woody Welch spoke with us about a sustainable energy economy, and specifically spoke with us about photovoltaic energy systems.  During the second to the last day, Woody also spoke to the class about financial strategies for staying out of debt.


So much thanks to our graduates.

They participated in 72 hours of classroom instruction in order to get their design course certificate.

The last Saturday night, the class had a fantastic talent show.

The last Sunday morning, and our last day of class, we held a Blanco River blessing ceremony, AND a father’s day blessing ceremony.  I’ve never experienced anything like that since I was alongside a river in Peru near Machu Picchu.

The students’ design course presentations were terrific.


Explosive abundance,

Kirby Fry



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June 2018 – Crop of the Month
Watermelon – Scientific Name: Citrullus lanatus
Family:  Cucurbitaceae

Watermelon is the crop of the month because many watermelon gardens that were planted after the last danger of frost, sometime between March 7 and March 21, are ready to harvest right now.  You will see watermelons showing up in roadside vegetable stands in mid to late June.  Texas is one of the largest producers of watermelons in the US.

Planting tips:

Soils should be loose down to 8” deep and be amended with broken down compost, and soft rock phosphorous.  At least 2 or 3 more applications of compost will need to be applied.  Six or seven seeds should be planted in hills 4” high and 12 to 14” wide.  Hills should be 2 to 3’ apart.  Each vine should be allowed to produce 2 to 4 fruit depending on how large you want the fruit to be.  Some varieties that do well here in Texas are Black Diamond, Crimson Sweet, Charleston Gray, Bush Sugar Baby, and Jubilee.

Harvesting tips:

The melons should be ripe when the tendril attached near the fruit is brown or dead, and the ground spot, where the fruit sits on the ground, is a creamy color with streaks in it.

Enjoy cold watermelon this summer to help make the summer’s heat a little more bearable!

Kirby Fry

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June 2018 – Native Plant of the Month

Written by Guest Contributor: Elenore Goode


Ironweed species – Vernonia baldwinii and Vernonia lindheimeri are the two species most commonly found in central Texas.
Family: Asteraceae – Aster Family
Ironweeds begin to bloom profusely in the heat at the start of summer in June. Their showy and vibrant flowers can keep blooming all summer and well into fall when they are happy, and they can send out new stalks and blooms if the old ones are cut down in late summer. Ironweeds are beloved by all pollinators, and their shape makes a perfect landing pad for large butterflies. Their relatively small individual flowers produce prolific amounts of little tufted seeds that float away in the wind. They are particularly useful plants for pollinator habitat restoration in areas with high deer pressure, as they are not favored for eating by herbivores.
– The first three photos below are Western Ironweed; The latter five are Woolly Ironweed –
Western Ironweed (Vernonia baldwinii) is a tall and hardy perennial plant that readily spreads into large patches from its seeds and rhizomes. By the time it blooms the stalks are typically anywhere from 3-6 ft tall. It is a wonderful plant for pollinator gardens, and works best where its spreading growth habit won’t become a problem. It grows very well with similarly-spreading plants, such as Goldenrod, Frostweed, American Germander, Artemesia ludoviciana, and Maximilian Sunflower, to create a symbiotic prairie ecosystem and give each other structural support to stay standing straight. This guild of plants will also create a succession of blooms through the summer and into fall, helping bridge the temporal fragmentation of food sources.
Woolly Ironweed (Vernonia lindheimeri) is hardier in rocky and dry soils, much smaller in stature and leaf size, and does not spread as vigorously as Western Ironweed. It is a beautiful plant for well-draining and dry areas and low-growing pollinator gardens, and makes a beautiful display in the heat of summer along with other hardy small perennials like Calylophus, Engelmann and Blackfoot Daisy, Short Goldenrod,  Fall Aster, Wedelia, Mealy Blue Sage, Stillingia sylvatica, Damianita, Lantana, etc.
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Earth Repair Corps, Interview with Pete VanDyck – 2018 06 20
By Kirby Fry

K: Pete, it has been my honor and privilege to work with you.

I believe that we first met during a permablitz maintenance event at Kealing Middle School around July 9, 2014.  Since then, you have stepped up and filled some very essential roles for the sustainable design movement in Central Texas.

My gratitude goes out to you, and to EVERYONE else implementing best design practices.

Please allow me to ask you six or seven questions.

  1. How, and or why, were you drawn to regenerative design systems?

Thanks, Kirby. Yes, we did meet at Kealing Middle School and this is actually a photo from that day,  good documentation there! Wow, I can’t believe how time flies! At first I was just interested in working outside with the land and plants, but I also had concerns about my own health, the health of society, and the health of our environment which made me want to look deeper into natural systems.  It was the same as many other folks who find this path – it usually happens from either a health issue due to poor nutrition, environmental conditions, or being hurt in mainstream society. I was sort of all three. Permaculture Design has opened my eyes to the answers for all of these problems and since then I have been more focused than I had ever been in my life.

2. How did you first learn about permaculture and sustainable design in Central Texas?

After being stationed in San Diego, California for six years I finished my contract with the military and began searching for a new career. During my time there I had developed a skill in finding the right people to help me accomplish my goals. Really all you have to do is find the highest source of knowledge that you can and learn from that person. So I went seeking out Mr. Kirby Fry, who seemed to be that person when I moved to Elgin, Texas.  I think I found out about the maintenance blitz at Kealing Middle School through Facebook. I first learned about Permaculture from Ben Falk’s great book “The Resilient Farm and Homestead”.

3. What are some important site selection criteria for a homestead or a farm that we should know about?

It’s very important to find a place with the capacity for redundant sources of water. That includes good wells and room for ponds and rain tanks. Access is also important – why buy land if half of it is inaccessible? Access can often be an afterthought when buying land, many folks figure that they’ll just be able to figure it out and everything will be fine. This can really throw a wrench in the gears when you are building a house and construction trucks cannot get to the building site, or the poor access keeps washing out, or roads are too muddy to cross, etc. I like a short road that’s high and dry, easy to maintain, and reliable.

The best place to put a road is on a ridge, so when you are looking to buy that property with the long easement that crosses multiple gullies my advice is to find a better one. I also like properties that are 20-50 percent forested. Trees make everything so much more comfortable in Texas, but I never advise buying fully forested properties. We ought to stay out of the brush and help reforest the land that needs the help. It’s also important to have a good solar aspect. Western facing hills can be brutally hot in the summer; I often find the biggest trees on the north side of the hill. Hills facing northeast seem to be the most comfortable in Texas for plants, people, and animals. I provide very reasonable pre-purchase assessments for anyone buying property. I can save people years of heartache with this service and I don’t think anyone should close on a property without getting professional eyes on it.

4. What are some important skill sets that we should know about in order to design a sustainable homestead?

It’s so important to find the right community. Getting a Permaculture Design Certificate is a really fantastic place to start. That way you learn how to think, instead of what to think. Then each person finds his or her own niche from there. Not everyone has to be a farmer or designer, we still need builders, teachers, medical professionals, and all the other important services. Equally important as the skill sets themselves is the person’s ability to apply their skills within the new paradigm we are creating through regenerative design. Designing a sustainable homestead really takes a vast amount of knowledge, having that community of like-minded individuals makes everything much smoother.

5. Please share with us some of your “hard knocks,” or what to avoid scenarios, that you may have encountered along your path.

Moving towards a regenerative lifestyle is not easier, it’s just different and can often be more difficult, but the rewards are great. Avoid long narrow properties; these usually cannot be sustainable or regenerative. Although long and narrow properties usually provide great return on investment for real estate investors, the shape of the property makes it awkward to properly place elements of a design in a way that is beneficial to the new landowner or the environment. Avoid long narrow access easements. Flash flooding is probably the most destructive force in Texas, stay out of the lowlands and keep dry. Seek professional advice as often as possible to find the cheapest and most effective solutions that will save money in the long term.

6. What are some of your aspirations for regenerative design in Central Texas?

I would like to see the re-hydration of the entire state of Texas so that our springs and rivers always flow year round. I’d like to achieve 100% ground cover 100% of the time on every project I am involved with. I think this great state we live in could become a beautiful work of natural art that is rich, abundant, and secure for generations to come. This is why I created my website,  Other than that I just want to live peacefully and be a good example to others.


K: Thank you, Pete for your love of the land, your love of all life, and your love for wanting to do to help create agriculturally productive ecosystems.

Explosive abundance my brother,

Kirby Fry, Earth Repair Corps


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May 2018 – Native Plant of the Month

Written by Guest Contributor: Elenore Goode


Monarda species – Lemon/Horsemint, Beebalm, Wild Bergamot
Scientific names: Monarda lindheimeriani, Monarda fistulosa, Monarda citriodora, Monarda punctata.
Family: Lamiaceae, Mint family
Species of the Monarda genus are the native plant of the month for May, which is when they begin to bloom, bringing us the next round of showy displays and vibrant colors just in time after many of the earlier native wildflowers have slowed or stopped their blooming. The annual and perennial species of the Monarda genus are reliable and hardy edible and medicinal plants for humans and wildlife, and are easy to grow in abundance from seed or transplants.

These members of the mint family (Lamiaceae) make delicious medicinal teas from fresh or dried leaves and flowers. The flowers are also a beautiful touch in salads, or can be saved in ice cubes. They are especially popular with pollinators and hummingbirds, and make wonderful perimeter plants in our gardens to attract beneficial insects. The perennial species, such as Monarda lindheimeriani and Monarda fistulosa, spread vigorously through their rhizomatous roots, and transplant readily. This quality, combined with their relative deer-resistance, makes them very useful as habitat restoration plants in rougher conditions when we are trying to create food for wildlife, and build biomass and species diversity.

Species in order of pictures: Monarda fistulosa cultivar – perennial
Monarda lindheimerianiv – perennial
Monarda lindheimeriani – perennial
Monarda fistulosa – perennial
Monarda citriodora – annual
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May 2018 – Crop of the Month
Sweet Potato – Scientific Name: Ipomoea Batatas
Family:  Convolvulaceae, commonly known as the bindweed or morning glory family

Sweet potato is the crop of the month because May is when sweet potato slips become available in most plant nurseries.  Bill Mollison spoke highly of the sweet potato.  Its edible leaves and edible tuber are a reliable source of food.  The tuber can be stored in root cellars for months through the winter.

In warmer climates than here in Central Texas it is a perennial food crop.  At our latitude of thirty degrees, however, it dies back in the winter and many of its tubers begin to rot in the ground.

Sweet potato should be planted after the last danger of frost and cold, wet spring weather.

The slips are sold in bundles of 50 or so, for about $10 or $12.  Plant them quickly after you buy them about 24 inches apart.  The sweet potato’s tubers will be ready to harvest in 90 to 120 days.

It’s satisfying to watch the dense leafy coverage of the sweet potato vine do a good job shading out Bermuda grass in and along the edge of your garden beds.  Watch out for rabbits and other rodents, though, because the leaves are very tinder and palatable and once rodents, especially rabbits, find a patch of sweet potatoes they will eat them all.

Good luck growing your sweet potatoes!

Explosive abundance,

Kirby Fry

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